Finnlandtörn 2007

3.2.2008 by admin.

Sommerreise 2007: Nach Finnland in die Sonne

Etappe 2 : Stockholm – Turku – Stockholm

Am 1.Juli sind wir im Museumshafen Kappeln gestartet und nach fast 3 Wochen schönem, aber auch teilweise anstrengendem Segeln am 17.Juli in Stockholm eingelaufen. Die erste Woche hatte uns durch ungünstiges Wetter ( mal kein Wind, heftiger Regen, mal zuviel Wind und dann auch noch aus der falschen Richtung) einiges abverlangt, aber ab Öland hatten die Meergötter ein einsehen. Fast immer SSW – S mit 3 – 6 Bft.

Bei Oskarshamn tauchten wir in den Schärengürtel ein und hatten ein wunderbares, meist entspanntes, aber manchmal auch sehr spannendes Segeln. Mit 5 – 7 kn durch die schmalen Schärenfahrwasser zu rauschen, forderte, insbesondere bei den häufigen Halsen, doch einigen Einsatz von unserer nur 6-köpfigen Crew. Aber es brachte auch Meilen.

Nach einigen kleinen Anreiseproblemen, ( nicht jeder Stockholmer Taxifahrer ist ortskundig, aber wozu gibt es Handys ) ist die neue Crew am Sonnabend, 21.Juli, an Bord eingetroffen.

Sonja hat eine wunderbare schwedische kalte Platte vorbereitet, und nachdem der Wein im Glas ist (NOCH ist ja genug an Bord), kann der Urlaub beginnen.

Für den nächsten Tag ist noch mal Stadtbummel angesagt, da die meisten Stockholm noch nicht kennen.

Passt ganz gut, da der Wetterbericht zwar Sonne aber leider auch Flaute angesagt hat.

(Bilder 1,2,3,4?)

Montag soll es weitergehen, leider ein besch… Wetter. E 5-6, Schauerböen und Regen. Wir beschließen, nur bis „Getfoten“ zu Segeln, eine kleine Schäre kurz vor Vaxholm, mit kleiner Kneipe und einer mietbaren Sauna drauf. Da es Montag ist, finden wir auch einen der 2 Plätze, die für Schiffe wie „Adelante“ in Frage kommen. Nach ein paar Saunagängen und einigen (tschechischen) Bieren in dem Restaurant sind alle wieder an Bord , die „Nichtsaunierer“ haben den Grill schon angeheizt, und alle hoffen, dass der Wetterbericht recht hat und wir ab Morgen Schiebewind haben.

Endlich geht die Reise richtig los. Und der Wetterbericht stimmte auch ziemlich. Wind aus SSW, aber leider nur 1 – 3 Bft. Aber immerhin, die Richtung stimmt. Die Wolken lassen uns vorsichtshalber das Ölzeug anziehen, es wird aber nicht wirklich gebraucht. Man kennt das ja „ soll es trocken bleiben, zieh dein Ölzeug an“.

Gewöhnen muss man sich an die allgegenwärtigen Fähren , die unerwartet „aus dem Unterholz brechen“ wie Armin so treffend bemerkte, das wird aber ab Mariehamn noch heftiger werden. „Spritlinjen“ nennen die Aländer diese schwimmenden Kneipen von den Ausmaßen der Kiel-Oslo Fähren, die zwischen Schweden, Alands und Finnland verkehren. Trifft die Sache viel besser als unser Begriff „Butterdampfer“. Da wurde ja auch kaum noch Butter gekauft.

Langsam wird der Wind auch ein wenig stärker, so dass wir abends einen schönen Ankerplatz bei der Insel Yxlan (hört sich nicht richtig schwedisch an, oder ?) finden.

Das ist das wunderbare an diesem Revier, es gibt fast überall geschützte Buchten, und da die Ostseeschären durchweg bewaldet sind, ist auch immer Windschutz gegeben. Dafür sind Häfen, wie der Segler sie aus Dänemark kennt, hier fast unbekannt. Der Schärensegler geht meist mit „ Heckanker und Bugleine an Bäumen“ zur Nachtruhe. Für uns kommt das wegen Klüverbaum nicht in Frage, wir ankern meist auf 4 – 10m Wassertiefe mitten in den Buchten. Da kann man auch ungestörter schwimmen.

2 Tage später segeln wir nach einer wunderbaren „Raumschotsrauschefahrt“ über die Alandssee in den Westhafen Mariehamns ein. Der Wind ist so günstig, dass wir unter Vollzeug bis an den Liegeplatz laufen können. Zum Glück haben die Teilnehmer der „Baltic Sail“ grade Mariehammn verlassen, so dass wir einen schönen Platz zugewiesen bekommen. Zwar ohne Stromanschluss, aber es wird ja kaum Dunkel hier.

Die Stadt ist schon was ganz besonderes, die Besichtigung der 4-Mastbark „Pommern“, die hier nach einem langen Arbeitsleben als Museumsschiff liegt, natürlich ein absolutes „Muss“. Aber nach 2 Tagen hat man das meiste gesehen, und wir legen ab, wieder hinein in die „Wildnis“.

Da wir für die Reise „Stockholm – Turku – Stockholm“ 4 Wochen Zeit haben, segeln wir nicht den kürzesten weg, sondern den schönsten. In Lappö bekommen wir sogar mal wieder einen Liegeplatz an der Pier und beschließen, ein paar Tage zu bleiben. Es gibt kostenlose Fahrräder, Sauna und massenhaft Gegend und Natur. Pilze sowieso. Aber wir wollen ja auch noch Turku sehen, also mit einem lachenden und einem weinenden Auge am dritten Tag wieder Leinen los .

Ein paar Tage später liegen wir in Fluß Aurajoki mitten im Zentrum Turkus. Zwar keine Versorgung, aber mitten in der Stadt, und Liegegeld will auch niemand.

Nach der ganzen Schärennatur ein richtiger Zivilisationsschock. Menschen , Autos, Lärm. Fest vertäut liegen ca. 15 ehemalige Frachter oder Trawler als schwimmende Kneipen am Flußufer, und es ist immer ordentlich was los dort. Uns graust ein bisschen bei den Bierpreisen, aber der Finne denkt wohl, „der Sommer und das Leben ist kurz, also was solls , immer hinein mit As und Tein“.

Wir beschließen, 2-3 Tage Stadtbummel, und dann heißt es wieder wieder „Leinen los“ und zurück in die Einsamkeit der Schären. Mittlerweile ist es auch richtig heiß geworden, und nachdem der Anker in einer kleinen Bucht gefallen ist, springt die Crew erst mal ins Wasser, abkühlen.

Und so geht es bis fast nach Stockholm weiter. Nachdem der Anker im Grund ist, Badeleiter raus, ins Wasser, dann werden die Angler am Ufer abgesetzt und der Grill klargemacht. Meist liegen dann Abends ein paar Barsche , ein Hecht oder auch ein Brassen auf dem Feuer. Allerdings, ab ca. 20.00 Uhr ist Mückenzeit, also „Autandusche“. Und so gegen Mitternacht noch mal ins Wasser, das Autan abwaschen, und dann trödelt alles so langsam in die Kojen. Zum Glück haben wir Mückennetze an den Luken, so dass die Oberlichter Nachts offen bleiben können. Kann Mensch es noch viel besser haben?

Aber alles hat ein Ende, so auch der Urlaub. Am 15. August sind wir wieder in Getfoten, mieten noch einmal die Sauna und beschließen, die Abschiedsparty sofort zu machen, obwohl der Flieger erst am 18. geht. Der nächste Nachmittag sieht uns etwas verkatert wieder im Navishamn in Stockholm einlaufen. Noch einen Tag zum Stadtbummel, und ,na ja, was solls, noch eine Abschiedsparty.

Am 19.August macht sich die „Adelante“ mit neuer Crew auf den langen Weg nach Hause. Und alle hoffen, dass die spätsommerliche Westwindlage sich noch ein bisschen Zeit lässt.

Aber davon demnächst mehr.

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